{"id":3140,"date":"2017-03-07T06:30:00","date_gmt":"2017-03-07T04:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gastroygourmet.com\/?p=3140"},"modified":"2026-09-20T12:13:31","modified_gmt":"2026-09-20T10:13:31","slug":"horcher-la-eterna-modernidad-del-clasicismo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gastroygourmet.com\/?p=3140","title":{"rendered":"Horcher, la eterna modernidad del clasicismo"},"content":{"rendered":"
\nDec\u00eda Wilde <\/b>que las modas son algo tan espantoso que hay que cambiarlas cada seis meses<\/i>. Dice Armani <\/b>que la elegancia no es destacar, sino ser recordado<\/i>. Creo que ambos se refer\u00edan a la elegancia en el vestir, pero tengo claro que ambas frases encajan en muchas m\u00e1s facetas que la de la sastrer\u00eda. Viene todo esto a cuento de que hace unos d\u00edas, tras comer en Horcher <\/b>pensaba en mi paseo de sobremesa si ser absolutamente cl\u00e1sico no es a menudo rompedor<\/b>. Formul\u00e9 la pregunta en Instagram <\/i><\/b>y un seguidor me contest\u00f3 diciendo que nada hay m\u00e1s hipster que lo absolutamente cl\u00e1sico<\/i>. No s\u00e9 si es cierto pero creo que el tema merece una reflexi\u00f3n.<\/span><\/div>\n
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\nHorcher es elegancia y atemporalidad<\/b>. No es un restaurante decadente o pasado de moda y no lo es b\u00e1sicamente porque a lo largo de su historia ha conseguido llegar a ese Olimpo reducido a unos pocos, donde la temporalidad deja de ser un par\u00e1metro, donde la historia se detiene y donde los fundamentos de la gastronom\u00eda vuelven a sus or\u00edgenes.<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
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\nMucho ha llovido desde que all\u00e1 por 1943 el abuelo de <\/span>Elisabeth Horcher<\/b>, <\/span>Otto<\/b>, abriera las puertas de este restaurante. Es ahora la cuarta generaci\u00f3n quien ostenta las riendas del negocio y lo hace conjugando en todo momento modernidad y clasicismo, demostrando que en un lugar donde se ha gestado buena parte de la historia contempor\u00e1nea, donde han estado sentados desde <\/span>Sof\u00eda Loren<\/b> o <\/span>John Wayne<\/b> a <\/span>Salvador Dal\u00ed<\/b>, donde se disfruta entre cubiertos de plata, porcelanas cl\u00e1sicas y crister\u00edas <\/span>Riedel <\/i>puede seguir disfrut\u00e1ndose en plenitud de la mejor cocina con la mejor sala en un ambiente inigualable.<\/b> El
\nactual responsable de cocina, <\/span>Miguel
\nHermann<\/b> es un jovenc\u00edsimo chef nacido hace tan s\u00f3lo 29 a\u00f1os pero con m\u00e1s de 9
\nde experiencia en las cocinas de <\/span>Horcher
\n<\/b>y formado en la <\/span>Escuela de Hosteler\u00eda de Toledo.<\/b><\/div>\n
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\nAhora que tartares, ceviches y pulpos a la brasa inundan las cartas de la mayor\u00eda de los restaurantes, \u00bfno les parece completamente rebelde apostar por platos como los arenques a la crema con kartoffelpuffer, el g<\/span>oulash de ternera a la h\u00fangara, el <\/b>Stroganoff a la mostaza de Pommery  o la m\u00edtica perdiz a la prensa?<\/b> ; ahora que el servicio de sala es en muchos lugares \u00abdiscretito<\/i>\u00bb (tirando a lamentable), \u00bfno les resulta rompedor un servicio acad\u00e9mico de principio a fin en el que todo funciona en una sincron\u00eda perfecta?. <\/b><\/span><\/span>Horcher sigue siendo una referencia atemporal abierta
\na todos aquellos que disfruten del buen comer y quieran sentirse simplemente especiales
\ndurante unas horas. La impronta y la personalidad de Otto Horcher<\/b> siguen plenamente vigentes en los comedores de este cl\u00e1sico entre los cl\u00e1sicos.<\/i> Su recetario de corte centroeuropeo contin\u00faa ofreciendo platos dif\u00edciles de encontrar si no es en los salones de Horcher<\/b>.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

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\nLes podr\u00eda hablar pormenorizadamente de cada plato de Horcher<\/b>, de sus cl\u00e1sicos y de su puesta en escena, de sus emplatados, de sus terminaciones en sala, del prensado de la becada o de la perdiz<\/b> (todo el mundo deber\u00eda presenciar ese espect\u00e1culo al menos una vez en su vida), de los salseados, de ese Baumkuchen <\/b>con el que se sue\u00f1a varios d\u00edas seguidos despu\u00e9s de probarlo, del servicio milim\u00e9trico, de la perfecci\u00f3n omnipresente… pero prefiero centrarme en ofrecerles algunos destellos de las sensaciones que en Horcher <\/b>se experimentan.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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\nSentarse a la mesa de Horcher es una de esas experiencias inolvidables<\/b>. El sabor, cre\u00e1nme, es solo una de las m\u00faltiples sensaciones que all\u00ed van a experimentar<\/b>. Y cre\u00e1nme tambi\u00e9n si les digo que cuando al fin bajen las escaleras hacia la calle Alfonso XII se convencer\u00e1n de que clasicismo exacerbado y modernidad rompedora est\u00e1n mucho m\u00e1s cerca de lo que nos imaginamos.<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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Dec\u00eda Wilde que las modas son algo tan espantoso que hay que cambiarlas cada seis meses. Dice Armani que la elegancia no es destacar, sino ser recordado. Creo que ambos se refer\u00edan a la elegancia en el vestir, pero tengo claro que ambas frases encajan en muchas m\u00e1s facetas que la de la sastrer\u00eda. Viene […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3141,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-restaurantes"],"yoast_head":"\nHorcher, la eterna modernidad del clasicismo - Gastro y Gourmet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gastroygourmet.com\/?p=3140\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Horcher, la eterna modernidad del clasicismo - Gastro y Gourmet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dec\u00eda Wilde que las modas son algo tan espantoso que hay que cambiarlas cada seis meses. 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